Masonry Bonding Procedures

Working drawing

When drawings are received on the site, they should be carefully studied so that the work to be done is carefully understood. care should be taken before setting out any walling to a certain form of drawing.

Setting of equipment

Before setting out any work, the tape should be carefully checked for accuracy. Metallic linen tapes tend to stretch after they have been in use, so it is wise to check them against a known length, such as a measuring chain.

Erecting a corner

When the pegs are fixed and the gauge rod set out, the corner should be erected. The corners should not be too large, for its much more economical to run a wall with the aid of a line than building up a large portions of walling as a corner.

The corners should preferably be racked than toothed. Toothing is very difficult to secure a solid joint because it gives a point of weakening mostly if there is a slight movement in the foundation.

Obtuse Angles in Flemish Bond

Internal and External Obtuse Angels

An alternative method of building an obtuse angels in Flemish bond without using squint bricks

INTERNAL OBTUSE ANGLES

Internal obtuse angles in English and Flemish Bond

Internal obtuse angles

RACKING BACK

Broken Bond

This occurs within a wall when the space does not fit a full brick size. it is much better to avoid a broken bond, but where openings and pliers do not allow for brick sizes, the broken bond must be carefully set out once their position has been settled and this should be maintained throughout the right of the wall. A closer should not be placed in the middle of the wall. 1/2 bat of 3/4 bat is always preferred.

Jambs and reveals

Jambs and reveals maybe two types i.e. Square or recessed. The square reveals are easier to form and generally stronger. The unbound of brick cutting necessary to form the bond for recessed jamb tends to create weakness.

The principal of bonding at reveal is similar in all cases. But in Dutch bond it requires more cutting.

Fixing Window Frames to reveal

There are many methods of securing frames to reveals but this depends on the type of frame and the material into which they are fitted. Metal frames which have no timber lining are usually secured with steel lugs fixed a countersunk bolt nut not the frame, and built into the reveal.